Technique, motif, repetition: traditional resist uses for contemporary textile practice.

Prideaux, V 2010, Technique, motif, repetition: traditional resist uses for contemporary textile practice., Masters by Research, Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University.


Document type: Thesis
Collection: Theses

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Title Technique, motif, repetition: traditional resist uses for contemporary textile practice.
Author(s) Prideaux, V
Year 2010
Abstract This exegesis presents the practice of handprinted textile design through the activity of designing, sampling and printing fabric. An underlying issue of my textile print practice is the preservation and dissemination of traditional hand printing skills. As textile print technology advances into digital print production and the textile design motif into computer generated imagery and pattern, traditional textile design hand processes are declining. The objective of this research is to examine and establish refined methods of textile design hand printing, using reactive dye resist techniques onto cellulose fabric.

The relationship between design and practice is significant for a textile designer producing handprinted textiles and relies on a connection of technical knowledge and creative output. This is because textile print design involves the use of general design fundamentals in relation to colour, imagery, pattern and composition as well as an understanding and appreciation for fabric and its tactility. In this instance, producing hand-printed textiles with dyes further requires a technical knowledge of dye classes, chemicals and the ways through which imagery can be applied to the surface of the fabric. The methodology of my research explores a design process that requires creative and craft components as well as a technical comprehension that is informed by chemistry.

The scope and impetus for this project originates in an examination of historical and cultural direct resist techniques. The research has been realised through the trialling of contemporary means for printing resist techniques onto cellulose fabrics using reactive dyes. The outcomes include recipes, detailed processes, fabric sampling and the production of a range of larger textile pieces.

The exegesis component demonstrates how a working method was established and reflected upon with an examination of literature that addresses the overlap between the chemistry of reactive dyes and the needs of the small-scale or designer-maker print practitioner. This extends to the documentation of different reactive dye classes and comparisons of dye stability for a printed end. The investigations carried out in the print workshop are presented with a survey of the repetitious nature of dye testing and sampling. The samples investigate the possibilities of using reactive dyes for the colour with starch and gum paste as the resist. To complement a full suite of hand print techniques these are additionally combined with illuminating discharge and coloured chemical resist processes.
Degree Masters by Research
Institution RMIT University
School, Department or Centre Fashion and Textiles
Keyword(s) handprinting
reactive dye
resist
screenprinting
textile design
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Created: Thu, 14 Apr 2011, 14:29:32 EST by Guy Aron
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