Spectroscopic analysis and characterisation of cosmetic powders

Kulikov, E 2013, Spectroscopic analysis and characterisation of cosmetic powders, Doctor of Philosophy (PhD), Applied Science, RMIT University.


Document type: Thesis
Collection: Theses

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Title Spectroscopic analysis and characterisation of cosmetic powders
Author(s) Kulikov, E
Year 2013
Abstract The material components of 39 cosmetic foundation powders, 23 being mineral-based and 17 traditional-based formulations, have been studied by X-ray Fluorescence (XRF), X-ray powder Diffraction (XRD) and spectroscopic analysis in the visible region, and mid and near-infrared regions. Chemometric applications including Principal Component Analysis (PCA), 2D correlation and multivariate curve resolution techniques have been applied to data to aid in interpretation and classify samples based on similarities and differences in formulations. The composition of mineral and traditional-based foundation powders was found to be quite different. Traditional formulations comprised of talc and, in some cases, calcium carbonate, while mineral-based samples contained larger amounts of mica.

Some samples, denoted by their producers as mineral samples, were subsequently classified as traditional as they contained talc in their formulations. 2D correlation applied across two spectroscopic methods highlights positive correlating spectral features between techniques. Elemental concentrations produced through XRF analysis, were correlated with XRD data. In this manner XRF data successfully aided the interpretation of XRD data and confirmed components that could be represented by a single element in their component phases, in particular, zinc oxide, bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide.

FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) analysis of samples in the mid and near infrared regions provided information on the structural and chemical composition of foundation samples. Correlation of XRD data and spectral data in the mid-infrared region confirmed the presence of talc, kaolin, calcium carbonate and mica in samples. 2 In general, mineral-based samples could be discriminated based on manufacturer, but traditional-based samples could not. The techniques and data analysis methods developed and applied here could be of benefit to the analysis of other complex, solid samples.
Degree Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)
Institution RMIT University
School, Department or Centre Applied Science
Keyword(s) Cosmetic foundation powders
Chemometric analysis
X-Ray Fluorescence
X-Ray Diffraction
Infrared Spectroscopy
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Created: Fri, 25 Oct 2013, 11:44:30 EST by Denise Paciocco
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